I was told about this place to stay in Naples where you had to join a club and then somehow retrieve the key. It fascinated me as much as Naples’ bad reputation. I tracked down the Robert Caplan Project and ended up staying in two amazing apartments full of modern art, books & textiles- and one even had a giant bird’s nest! From there, through the crazy traffic & busy port to the Amalfi Coastline. Years ago I had stayed up in the mountains of Rivello, in a blue & white tiled hotel room a-plenty with scented garden roses- I was desperate to re-visit this. It wasn’t as romantic as I remembered. The Amalfi Coast sparkles & shimmers and lures you with the Siren’s song as history repeats itself. You must stay at Hotel Le Sirenuse when you visit.